Friday, December 2, 2011

Tips to Spot Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

!±8± Tips to Spot Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon monoxide is the odorless and colorless gas that formed from incomplete burning of the organic compounds. Most of the deaths that caused by carbon monoxide are commonly the result from building fires. However, the significant portions are caused by the malfunctioning or the blocked exhaust systems. Moreover, this gas can be highly toxic since it is effective in blocking the delivery of the oxygen and most severely effects organs like the brain and heart. At this time, this article is going to give you several tips that will help you to spot carbon monoxide poisoning.

Firstly, carbon monoxide poisoning can be difficult to diagnose since there are broad range and vagueness of the common symptoms. The acute poisoning is often associated with physical symptoms of chest pain, breathing difficulty, fatigues, drowsiness, nausea, headaches, and also vomiting.

Secondly, you should be alert for the changes in the mental state. This type of gas can also cause the dramatic changes in the behavior because of its effect on brain. The effects include confusion, agitation, hallucination, depression, memory difficulties, and impulsiveness.

Thirdly, you need to inquire about the exposure when you are considering this diagnosis. This kind of poisoning must be suspected when the above symptoms are occurred during the winter, especially when the multiple patients form same household present similar complaints.

Fourthly, you need to search for the additional signs of the chronic poisoning. These can include the recent loss of cognitive ability, the loss of dentation, and also neurologic symptoms with the gradual onset.

Lastly, you have to make measurements of the carbon monoxide level in the blood by using spectrophotometric analyzer. This is actually not conclusive, however, as the chronic smokers can have CO level as high as 10 percent. The patient who has had the significant exposure to this type of gas may have low CO level if they have already been treated with the pure oxygen.


Tips to Spot Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

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Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Kidde Talking Smoke Fire and Carbon Monoxide Alarm

!±8± Kidde Talking Smoke Fire and Carbon Monoxide Alarm

Brand : Kidde | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 16, 2011 17:21:38 | Usually ships in 2-3 business days


  • Voice alarm
  • 85 decibel alarm
  • Proven fire smoke detection
  • Advanced carbon monoxide sensor technology
  • 5 year limited MFG warranty on smoke and CO alarm

More Specification..!!

Kidde Talking Smoke Fire and Carbon Monoxide Alarm

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

ProTech 7035 Lithium Battery Powered Carbon Monoxide Detector with Digital Display and Memory

!±8± ProTech 7035 Lithium Battery Powered Carbon Monoxide Detector with Digital Display and Memory

Brand : Protech | Rate : | Price : $64.92
Post Date : Nov 10, 2011 16:10:26 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


The ProTech 7035 lithium battery powered carbon monoxide alarm includes an LCD digital display, electrochemical sensor, and 5-year battery. Automatically displays current carbon monoxide level detected when alarm is activated. Manually displays the current and highest CO level detected from 10 to 500ppm, including time duration of peak carbon monoxide level. Sensor Life Monitor alerts you when sensor life has expired. The Pro-Tech 7035 carbon monoxide alarm is listed to ANSI/UL 2034-09 and certified to CSA/IAS 6-96 2nd Edition. Five year limited factory warranty.

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Friday, November 4, 2011

What You Need To Know Before Getting A Pair Of Binoculars

!±8± What You Need To Know Before Getting A Pair Of Binoculars

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION BASICS

What Do The Numbers On Binoculars Mean ?

Magnification and Objective Lens Size

All binoculars use the same method to define their technical specs. So for example a pair of binoculars may be described as 10 x 50. So what does this mean?

The "10" refers to the magnification power of the binoculars. This basically means that objects viewed will appear to be 10 times (10x) closer than when viewed with the bare eye.

The second number (in this case "50") indicates the diameter of the objective lens (the light gathering lens at the front of the binoculars); this is measured in millimeters. Note that the diameter of the lens is directly related to the size of the binoculars--the larger the objective lens, the larger (and normally brighter) the size of the binoculars.

Field Of View

When you look through your binoculars, the widest dimension you can see is known as the field of view. So for example a field of view of 390´ (feet) indicates that the width of the image you see is 390 feet at a distance of 1000 yards. Some binoculars feature unique lenses to provide a wide field that is greater than normally seen through binoculars of the same magnification (awide-field pair of binoculars is better for observing fast-moving objects, such as herds of racing animals like antelope). You should also be aware that the field of view diminishes as magnification increases.

Exit Pupil

You can see the exit pupil when looking through the eyepiece of your binoculars held at arm's length--that little stab of light you see in the ocular lens, is the exit pupil. So what's its relevance?

The diameter of the exit pupil determines how much light is transmitted to your eye...in other words, it determines how much you get to see (this is mostly of significance in low-light conditions).

The exit pupil is determined by dividing the objective lens size by the magnification. So for binoculars with specs. of 10 x 50 or 7 x 35 the exit pupil size would be 5mm. this is how it's determined:

Exit Pupil=objective lens size / magnification

Exit Pupil=50 / 10=5mm

Or

Exit Pupil=35 / 7=5mm

The diameter of the exit pupil does not matter much if there's enough ambient light, since the pupils of your eyes are generally smaller than the exit pupil size of your binoculars. However with dimming of ambient light, the pupils of your eye adapt by enlarging. This means that if the exit pupil size of your binoculars is comparatively small, in low light conditions this is going to be a significant restrictive factor. Consider the following example:

A pair of compact binoculars has the following specs: 8 x 25 i.e., magnification of 8 x and objective (front) lens of 25mm. As discussed above, we can easily determine the exit pupil size;

Exit Pupil Size=objective lens / magnification=25 / 8=3.1mm (approx.)

When ambient light gets low enough the pupils of your eyes adapt by increasing in size. If their size increase is greater than 3.1mm this means that size of your pupils is now greater than the exit pupil size of your binoculars...in simple terms this means that your binoculars aren't transmitting enough light to your eye. Now consider if your binoculars had the following specs: 7 x 50

Exit Pupil Size=50 / 7=7.1mm (approx.)

7.1mm diameter is the same (slightly greater actually) aperture size of fully-dilated pupils of eyes in excellent condition (typically found in young people). With binoculars that possess similar specs. (7.1mm exit pupil size), the amount of light transmitted to your eyes is never an issue. You'll always be able to see well in low light conditions.

Note that as we age the ability of our eyes to adapt to dim light is diminished. Our pupils no longer widen to the same extent as when we were younger. In fact the pupils of the elderly generally don't dilate beyond 4mm--so as one ages, the exit pupil size requirement decreases.

Collimation

This refers to the optical and mechanical alignment of binoculars. Cheap binoculars are often factory-shipped out of collimation. Good binoculars are carefully collimated, usually with laser precision. This translates into time and added cost at the manufacturing level--which translates into "more expensive" at your level (but it's worth it in the long run).

Poorly collimated binoculars will give you eyestrain and headaches.

Twilight Performance

The Twilight Performance is a measure of the capability of binoculars in low conditions.

A quick way to determine the Twilight Performance is to multiply magnification with objective lens diameter. The higher the result the better the twilight performance

Quality

The old adage "you get what you pay for" is never truer than when applied to binoculars. If you skimp on price you most definitely know it (and regret it) sooner than later.

Eye Relief

The distance between your eye and the eyepiece is referred to as "eye relief". Good eye relief is one of the important performance factors. Eye relief is especially important if you wear glasses. If you need to use binoculars while wearing spectacles or sunglasses look for models that provide at least 15mm of eye relief.

Prisms

The objective lenses are found at the front of the binoculars. They gather light from whatever it is you're looking at, and magnify the resulting image. This image at first, is upside down, and needs to be righted. This is the function of the prisms; they correct the orientation of the image so that by the time it gets to your eye it's focused the right way up.

Types of Prisms

Porro Prisms Models--Porro prism models will give you the best optics for your dollar, but lack the durability and compactness of roof prism models. You can easily recognize them by their offset tubes--the objective lens and the occular lens are not in line. The porro design is generally optically superior to the roof prism design, especially when dealing with mid-priced binoculars. Porro prism models are easier to adjust for the spacing between your eyes because they have a single pivot between the two lens tubes of the binoculars.

Porro Prism Sub-Types--There's something else you should take into consideration if you are going to buy a Porro prism model.

BAK-4 Prism Model--They are the best prism model type. They are designed with superior optical glass that results in clearer images. This type is what you should aim for.

BK-7 Prism Models--BK-7 prisms are usually found in lower priced models. They produce an inferior image and some manufacturers will not include this particular technical detail under the specification list because those of you in the know will be alerted to the fact this is an inferior design.

Roof Prism Models--are more compact. This is possible because of the way they are designed...they have straight tubes because the objective (front) lens is in line with the ocular (rear) lens. They commonly have two pivot points between the tubes, thus are harder to adjust for the spacing between your eyes. Roof prism models are usually more durable and compact, but you'll need to spend more money to get good optical quality (or the equivalent optical quality of a Porro prism model with the same technical specifications).

Lens Coating

Light transmission through your binoculars is influenced by the use and type of anti-reflective coating on the binoculars lenses. How come? Because when anti-reflective coating is applied to the glass surface of binoculars it increases the amount of light transmitted to your eye. In simple terms what this means is the better the type of anti-reflective coating the sharper the resultant image.

Here are some of the terms you may come across associated with lens anti-reflective coating.

C: Some surfaces coated

FC: Other than plastic lenses, all surfaces coated

MC: Some surfaces coated with multiple layers

FMC: All glass surfaces coated with multiple layers

FMC--Fully Multi-Coated means that all air-to-glass surfaces have been multiple-layer coated which translates into the best image. This is the best quality, the downside being they are going to cost more.

Summary

For The Safari Traveller This Is What You Should Remember

Best avoid zoom binoculars. The theory seems appealing but the reality is very different. Most zoom models are virtually impossible to hold steady at higher magnifications and have very limited fields-of-view

Compact Models. Since you're going to be on the move a lot and most likely doing most of your viewing in good daylight, you should probably settle for a good compact model--models with a magnification between 7 and 10. Probably the best all-rounder is a good pair of 7x35 model. They are bright enough to allow observation in low light conditions and portable enough not to be a weight burden.

Getting a pair of binoculars is a lifetime investment so try and buy the best possible model that you can. Remember, you get what you pay for!


What You Need To Know Before Getting A Pair Of Binoculars

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Sunday, October 30, 2011

Kidde 900-0113-02 Carbon Monoxide and Explosive Gas Alarm

!±8±Kidde 900-0113-02 Carbon Monoxide and Explosive Gas Alarm

Brand : Kidde
Rate :
Price : $69.00
Post Date : Oct 30, 2011 07:16:29
Usually ships in 24 hours



Kidde 900-0113-02 Carbon Monoxide and Explosive Gas AlarmKidde 900-0113-02 Carbon Monoxide and Explosive Gas Alarm Features:; Protection from two threats, advanced alarm detects both carbon monoxide and explosive gas; AC plug with hide-a-way cord, allows direct or remote plug in; Digital readout of CO level; Continuous read of measured CO values from 30 to 999 PPM; Loud 85 decibel alarm, alerts you if CO or explosive gas levels become dangerous; Sleek design fits conveniently into any standard wall outlet; 9 volt battery included

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Carbon Monoxide Alarm Maintenance, CO Alarm Testing

!±8± Carbon Monoxide Alarm Maintenance, CO Alarm Testing

Carbon monoxide alarm maintenance doesn't require any special skills from you. However, just like the smoke alarm maintenance it is something that should become a routine for you. Those few minutes dedicated to CO alarm maintenance and testing might be a difference between life and death.

Between 1999 and 2004, Carbon Monoxide poisoning contributed to 16,447 deaths in the United States... just a few minutes of your time.

If your house has been equipped with a security / burglar alarm - contact your service provider and let them know about testing procedures. CO alarms / detectors might be a part of the system. While testing the alarm, you may want to cover the siren opening with your fingers - properly functioning CO alarm will be very loud.

Test your Carbon Monoxide alarm once a week by pressing the Test/Reset button - simple, isn't it...

Depending on the design and manufacturer, the response of the CO alarm may be different, usually you should hear one short beep followed by a few seconds of silence, and a few additional beeps. This might be in addition to a blinking light, strobe like effect, or voice warning announcement.

1. Start from examining CO alarm location, it's as important as regular maintenance and testing. If the alarm has been installed improperly, in a wrong spot, it might not respond to an elevated carbon monoxide level as soon as it supposed to, or not respond at all.

2. Check the manufacturer date on you carbon monoxide alarm (there' should be a label attached to the back wall of the device) and contact its manufacturer (the easiest way would be to check their website) to determine the life span of this particular model.

Carbon Monoxide alarms have a limited lifetime, the average is around five years, but some might have as little as 2 year warranty, while others 6-7 years. Replace with a new device immediately if you confirm that its warranty has already expired.

3.Once a month vacuum your CO alarm(s) cover to remove accumulated dust. The soft brush attachment from your vacuum cleaner is the best for this purpose. If your carbon monoxide alarm is a plug-in or hard wired type - unplug / disconnect the alarm from the electrical power supply before vacuuming.

4. Always instruct children never to touch, unplug or otherwise interfere with the carbon monoxide alarm. Educate children of the dangers of CO poisoning.

5. Never use any detergents or solvents for CO alarm cleaning purposes. Chemicals can temporarily contaminate the sensor or cause permanent damage to this life saving device.

6. Never use air fresheners, spray paint, hair spray, or any other aerosols in the alarm area.

7. Do not paint the carbon monoxide alarm enclosure. Paint will seal the vents / screens protecting the sensor and interfere with its proper operation.

8. Believe it or not, but mounting the CO alarm directly above or near a diaper pail can cause faulty readings on the digital display (high amounts of methane gas).

9. Before you begin:

staining or stripping wood floors furniture painting wall-papering using aerosols or adhesives

10. Remove the CO alarm from the location you'll be performing this work in order to prevent possible damage or contamination of its sensor. You may also cover the unit with a plastic bag for the duration of the project - remember to remove the plastic and / or reinstall the CO alarm as soon as the work has been completed and area well ventilated.

Do Not Use Rechargeable Batteries in Carbon Monoxide alarms. Only alkaline type batteries should be used. Replace the batteries as soon as the unit starts chirping an audible low battery alarm, and blinking warning lights - don't just remove the old batteries - REPLACE THEM as soon as possible!

High levels of the substances listed below can affect the carbon monoxide alarm sensor. Their presence could result in temporary readings on the digital display that are actually not carbon monoxide readings:

Methane, propane, iso-butane, ethylene, ethanol, alcohol, iso-propanol, benzene, toluene, ethyl acetate, hydrogen, hydrogen sulfide, sulfur dioxides, most aerosol sprays, alcohol based products, paints, thinners, solvents, adhesives, hair sprays, after shaves, perfumes, auto exhaust (cold start) and some cleaning agents.

Two of the major CO alarm manufacturers and links to pages where you can locate manuals (please report to me if any of the links are broken);

Kidde Carbon Monoxide Alarms

First Alert Detectors

Never ignore an alarming Carbon Monoxide alarm! It is warning you of a potentially deadly hazard.

Go ahead, start your Carbon Monoxide maintenance and testing right now!


Carbon Monoxide Alarm Maintenance, CO Alarm Testing

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